1. I’m not sure at which point during the weekend I’d ideally instruct you to try your hand at these, but I think it’s wise to get it early. You’re meant to eat them on Good Friday, but I don’t think we have to be so tied by tradition. Still, there are so few true examples of seasonal eating left, it would be pity to leave these out altogether. I know you’d think, indeed I’d have thought, that it would be pointless to make something at home when the bought versions can be so good, but I find it peculiarly satisfying to make these, and although they look slightly ramshackle and unprofessional, they do have the edge on any shop-bought stuff. I make my hot cross buns slightly smaller than is traditional. Don’t know why, just like them that way, but you form them the size you want, please. Just one thing I must be strict about: you do need to use proper bread flour here, not the usual plain. There’s no point going to all this effort and ruining your chances of success over such a small but significant point. By effort, I don’t mean you need to be hugely active or expert to make these; you just need the patience to sit around while they rise, and the faith to believe they will. Very appropriate.

3. 1.Heat the milk, butter, orange zest, clove and cardamom pods in a saucepan until the butter melts, then leave to infuse. I have gone rather cardamom mad recently, but this short aromatic infusion gives a heavenly scent to the little fruited buns later.

5. 3.Knead the bowl either by hand or with a machine with a dough hook; if it is too dry add a little more warm milk or water. Keep kneading until you have silky, elastic dough, but bear in mind that the dried fruit will stop this from being exactly satin smooth.

7. 5.Preheat the oven to gas mark 7/220C. Take the dough out of the fridge and let it come to room temperature.

9. 7.Sit the buns on a baking parchment or Bake-O-Glide-lined baking sheet. Make sure they are quite snug together but not touching. Using the back of an ordinary eating knife, score the tops of the buns with the imprint of a cross. Cover with a teatowel and leave to prove again for about 45 minutes – they should have risen and almost joined up.

11. 9.When the hot cross buns come out of the oven, mix the sugar and boiling water together for the glaze, and brush each hot bun to make them sweet and shiny.